Skincare Ingredients List
Acai Berry
Acai berries have high concentrations of antioxidants and are rich in amino acids, fibre and several minerals. They contain fatty acids including omega-3, omega-6 and omega-9, as well as vitamins A, B1, B2, B3 and C. Including acai in skincare formulas helps to extend product life. Acai berries help to resist damage by free radicals. Acai is generally suitable for sensitive skin.
Acetate
An acetic acid salt. The word that follows or precedes “acetate” on an ingredient list determines the function of the acetate.
Acetic Acid
A solvent and fragrance used to adjust pH levels in cosmetics. It is used in skin-bleaching products, hand lotions and hair dyes. It is found in many fruits including apples, oranges and pineapples, as well as in vinegar. It has some disinfecting properties. Acetic acid is found in apple cider vinegar, which is used in some DIY skincare recipes. In commercial skincare products it usually appears in the form of an acetate. See Acetate, Apple Cider
Acetone
A solvent commonly found in nail polish removers and sometimes in astringent toners. It can be drying and irritating.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-3
See Argireline.
Acetylsalicylic Acid
Also known as aspirin. It combines acetic acid and salicylic acid. Although acetylsalicylic acid contains salicylic acid the two compounds are not identical. See Acetic Acid, Salicylic Acid.
Achillea Millefolium Extract
See Yarrow Extract.
Activated Charcoal
Charcoal that has been processed to increase its surface area, which in turn increases its absorbency. See Charcoal.
Adenosine
A molecule that occurs naturally in the human body. In products adenosine can soothe the skin in addition to delivering anti-aging benefits by smoothing the skin’s surface and reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Adenosine is suitable for all skin types.
Agar
A gelatinous substance added to products as a thickener. Agar comes from seaweed and is a very mild antioxidant.
Alcohols
A category encompassing a wide range of substances with varying effects on the skin. Alcohols with a low molecular weight are considered bad for the skin, particularly if they’re primary ingredients in a product. These alcohols are added to products to help other ingredients penetrate the skin and to reduce the skin’s oiliness. They dehydrate the skin and can damage the skin, causing sensitization. Bad alcohols include benzyl alcohol, methanol, ethyl alcohol, denatured alcohol, SD alcohol and isopropyl alcohol. Note that if a product simply lists “alcohol” as an ingredient, it generally refers to ethyl alcohol. Alcohols with a high molecular weight, also known as fatty alcohols, do not cause dehydration and sensitization. They are non-irritating emollients that can benefit most skin types, especially dry skin. Fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.
Algae
Algae contains antioxidants, amino acids, minerals, fatty acids and vitamins. It is an emollient and its vitamins protect skin from free radical damage. Algae helps prevent skin dehydration by regulating sebum production.
Algin
See Alginates.
Alginates:Emulsifiers and thickening agents in creams, moisturizers and other products. Alginates are suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin.
Alginic Acid
An acid derived from marine algae. See Alginates.
Allantoin
A chemical that helps to sooth and heal the skin. Allantoin is generally non-irritating
Almond Oil
A non-fragrant oil extracted from almond seeds, also known as sweet almond oil. It is used as an emollient, and is a source of Vitamin E, proteins and fatty acids such as oleic acid and linoleic acid. It is not known to cause any sensitivities, although people with nut allergies can react to it.
Aloe Barbadensis
See Aloe Vera.
Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera, also called aloe barbadensis, has mild moisturizing properties. It can help to soothe the skin after injury, particularly after a sunburn. It also has mild antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Aloe Vera is suitable for both dry and oily skin types. Note that other varieties of aloe aren’t effective skincare ingredients.
Alpha Lipoic Acid
A fatty acid that occurs naturally in the body and contributes to the skin’s smoothness. It is an antioxidant that is water- and fat-soluble, enabling it to penetrate well into skin cells. It has anti-inflammatory properties, but high concentrations of alpha lipoic acid can cause a burning or stinging sensation on skin.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) include glycolic acid and lactic acid. AHAs have exfoliating properties
Alumina
A mineral used as a thickening agent in cosmetics and as an exfoliant in exfoliating scrubs.
Aluminum
Aluminum compounds are used in skincare and makeup products and have a variety of uses, including as antiperspirants, physical exfoliants, product thickeners and oil absorbers. Aluminum compounds such as aluminum chloride, alumina and magnesium aluminum silicate are safely used in cosmetics, as the skin cannot absorb aluminum in these products. However, aluminum may irritate sensitive skin. Some people also have specific allergies to aluminum.
Amino Acids
Amino acids are the foundations of the proteins found throughout the human body. Amino acids have antioxidant properties. Different amino acids affect cells in different way, and environmental factors and aging reduce natural amino acid levels in the body. Skincare products contain amino acids to help restore reduced levels in the body. They are also used in emollients and moisturizers. The body also receives many amino acids from foods high in protein. Amino acids include arginine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, proline, phenylalanine, methionine and threonine.
Aminobenzoic Acid
An active ingredient in some chemical sunscreens that protects against UVB radiation. It can make some people sensitive to light.
Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
An ingredient in some cleansers that creates a foamy lather and helps to lift oil and debris from the skin. It may be too drying for people with dry, combination dry or
Anise
See Aniseed Extract.
Aniseed Extract
A fragrant plant extract with antioxidant properties, also known as anise. It can irritate sensitive skin or cause sensitization.
Antimicrobials Ingredients that kill bacteria and microorganisms and prevent further growth. They extend the shelf-life of skincare products by preventing bacterial growth in the product. They can also prevent the growth of bacteria on the skin.
Antioxidants
Antioxidants encompass a broad category of materials including vitamins and amino acids. They neutralize free radicals and help to prevent oxidative stress, which can otherwise lead to signs of aging. Common antioxidants in skincare products include vitamins C and E, zinc, copper, beta-carotene, coenzyme Q10, Idebenone, lycopene, resveratrol, ferulic acid and niacinamide. Ingredients such as green tea extract, coffee berries, red wine, turmeric, pomegranate and grapeseed also contain antioxidants. Current research suggests that many antioxidants are effective when applied to the skin. However, they must be formulated with ingredients that allow the antioxidants to penetrate the skin and work effectively. Antioxidants break down when exposed to light or air and must be stored in opaque, air-tight containers.
Apple
Apples contain antioxidants as well as malic acid, an alpha-hydroxy acid. Apple enzymes are also used in chemical exfoliants for their mild exfoliating properties. See Alpha-Hydroxy Acids.
Apple Cider Vinegar
A popular ingredient in DIY toners and masks. Apple cider vinegar (ACV) is antibacterial and antimicrobial, making it a useful ingredient for fighting clogged pores and clearing the skin. It can also help to balance the skin’s pH. Natural skincare specialists recommend buying raw, unfiltered ACV that contains “the mother.” The mother is a cloudy substance containing probiotics and proteins. It forms naturally during the vinegar’s fermentation process. Applying undiluted apple cider vinegar to the skin can cause irritation.
Apricot Kernel
Ground-up apricot kernel is a coarse, granular substance included as an exfoliant
Apricot Kernel Oil
A non-fragrant, emollient plant oil derived from apricot seeds. It smooths and softens the skin and has mild antioxidant properties.
Arbutin
A skin-brightener and antioxidant. Arbutin may be extracted from the bearberry plant or formulated synthetically. It breaks down into hydroquinone when absorbed into the skin, making it effective for brightening uneven skin tones or dark spots. It is less potent and less likely to irritate the skin than hydroquinone. See Hydroquinone.
Argan Oil
A non-fragrant, emollient plant oil derived from argan tree nuts. It contains fatty acids that maintain skin smoothness and elasticity, including oleic acid and linoleic acid. It is a good source of antioxidant compounds, including Vitamin E. It is a useful moisturizer for dry skin and hair, but excessive use can make skin and hair greasy, especially for oily or combination oily skin.
Arginine
An amino acid that helps hydrate skin. It has antioxidant properties. See Amino Acids.
Argireline
Also known as acetyl hexapeptide-3, argireline is a synthetically formulated peptide used in anti-wrinkle treatments and products. It is considered a cosmetic alternative to Botox, although it isn’t as effective
Ascorbic Acid
A form of Vitamin C that has antioxidant properties. It is used for evening out skin tones, smoothening wrinkles and brightening dull skin. However, it loses its effectiveness in UV light and air. Because ascorbic acid is an unstable form of vitamin C it is more likely to irritate sensitive or sensitized skin than stable forms of vitamin C.
Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate
A stable and non-acidic form of vitamin C. It is an effective antioxidant and is useful in reducing pollution and sun damage. It is less likely to irritate the skin than unstable forms of vitamin C.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
A stable and non-acidic form of vitamin C. It is an effective antioxidant and is useful in reducing pollution and sun damage. It is less likely to irritate the skin than unstable forms of vitamin C.
Avena Sativa
See Oatmeal.
Avobenzone
The most common chemical sunscreen ingredient. It protects skin from broad-spectrum UVA rays, but does not protect against UVB rays. It is used with UVB-absorbing ingredients in sunscreens. Like many chemical sunscreens, it can cause inflammation in sensitive skin.
Avocado Oil
A non-fragrant, emollient plant oil rich in fatty acids and vitamins that help to moisturize the skin and to relieve itching and discomfort caused by dryness. Avocado oil is particularly rich in oleic acid, making it beneficial for dry skin but potentially pore-clogging and greasy for oily, combination oily or normal skin.
Azelaic Acid
An acid derived from grains including barley, wheat and rye. It is a stable and effective chemical exfoliant with antibacterial properties. It helps to unclog pores, refine skin texture, and reduce redness on skin. It is an antioxidant. It can help treat rosacea, acne scars, and blemishes. Azelaic acid may cause irritation to some people, and in some cases can also produce an allergic reaction.
Azuki Beans
Ground-up azuki beans are used as a physical exfoliant in skin care scrub products.
Azulene
A derivative of chamomile with antioxidant properties. It is a mild anti-inflammatory.
BOSWELLIA SERRATA EXTRACT
A fragrant extract from the resin of the Indian frankincense tree. It can help to reduce redness and smooth the skin. It may cause irritation in people sensitive to fragrance and fragrant extracts.
Babassu Oil
A plant oil derived from the babassu palm that has emollient properties.
Bacuchiol
An antioxidant derived from the babchi plant that may assist in restoring and brightening the skin.
Balsam Peru
A fatty resin used in some masks, astringents and other skincare products. It is a very common irritant and so it is often used in patch tests for skin sensitivity. It can also react with a variety of other natural ingredients including essential oils.
Bearberry Extract
Bearberry extract has antioxidant and skin-brightening properties. It is also an astringent.
Bee Pollen
A trendy ingredient in natural skincare products. It contains a variety of vitamins, minerals and amino acids. Bee pollen can be a skin sensitizer and can cause allergic reactions in people allergic to bee stings.
Beeswax
Beeswax comes from the honeycombs created in beehives. It is both a humectant and an emollient, meaning it draws in moisture and creates a protective coating over the skin that prevents moisture from evaporating. Beeswax is thick and has a relatively high melting point. As a result it is often used to thicken skincare products. Beeswax is a common ingredient in soaps, lip balms, moisturizers and intensive salves for chapped or cracked skin. Beeswax has a fairly low comedogenic rating. This means it isn’t very likely to clog pores and provoke blemishes. In fact, some research suggests it has mild antibacterial properties. Beeswax is rarely irritating for people with dry or sensitive skin, unless they have a specific sensitivity or allergy to it. It also has a subtle smell that many people like.
Bentonite
A white clay used as a thickener and emulsifier. It is used in makeup and face masks because of its ability to absorb oil and reduce shine. It may clog pores if left on the skin. It is also used as a colouring. Because of its effectiveness at absorbing oil, it is most appropriate for oily and
Benzophenones
Compounds that protect from UVB and some UVA radiation. Benzophenones are used in cosmetics and sunscreens.
Benzoyl Peroxide
An antibacterial agent used in over-the-counter and prescription acne treatments. It penetrates pores to kill the bacteria responsible for acne. It can cause irritation and dryness.
Benzyl Alcohol
A drying, irritating alcohol. See Alcohols.
Beta-carotene
An antioxidant found in all plants and many animals. Also known as provitamin A.
Beta-glucan
A sugar derived from yeast, barley and oats that has mild antioxidant properties. It is used to reduce redness and to soothe and smooth sensitive or dry skin.
Beta-hydroxy Acids (BHA)
Most skincare products advertising beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) contain the BHA salicylic acid, which can penetrate deeper into the skin than AHAs and is better for addressing acne. See Salicylic Acid.
Biotin
A form of Vitamin B that regulates hair and nail growth. It is found in shampoos and conditioners.
Bisabolol
A floral-scented compound that occurs naturally in chamomile. It is typically used as a moisturizer, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial.
Black Caraway Seed Oil
See Nigella Oil.
Black Cumin Seed Oil
See Nigella Oil.
Black Seed Oil
See Nigella Oil.
Black Sesame Oil
See Nigella Oil.
Blackberry
Blackberry leaves are used in natural bath products to sooth and refresh skin. The berries also have antioxidant properties.
Borage Oil
A non-fragrant, emollient plant oil rich in linoleic acid.
Boswellia Serrata Extract
A generic term for a plant extract. The term sometimes appears on ingredient lists, typically accompanied by a breakdown of the specific botanicals included in the product. Botanicals are used in products to add the benefits of the specific botanical to the product. For instance, willow bark extract is a botanical containing salicylic acid, which helps to fight acne. The current trend for natural skincare products means that many companies are eager to advertise their products using botanicals. Note, however, that botanicals are sometimes present in such small quantities they have no actual impact on the product.
Bromelain
An enzyme found in pineapple that provides chemical exfoliation. See Pineapple Extract.
Buddleja Davidii Extract
An extract from the summer lilac or butterfly bush. It has antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and wound-healing properties.
Burdock Root
A plant with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It is beneficial to all skin types, but can cause irritation or reactions to people sensitive to ragweed.
Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA)
A preservative and antioxidant. It can cause irritation or reactions. The David Suzuki Foundation identified it as a “dirty dozen” ingredient. Note that it has no relation to beta-hydroxy acids, which are also referred to by the acronym BHA.
Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT)
A preservative and antioxidant in cosmetics. It is chemically similar to BHA and can also cause irritation or reactions. The David Suzuki Foundation identified it as a “dirty dozen” ingredient.
Butylene Glycol
A humectant that is very resistant to humidity. It is used in hairsprays and setting lotions and also acts as a preservative.
Cacao Butter
A rich, moisturizing plant butter with a natural chocolatey scent. It may clog pores or feel greasy, particularly for people with oily or combination oily skin.
Caffeine
A common stimulant coffee and other beverages. It may have antioxidant properties. Caffeine can temporarily improve the look of dry skin, but caffeine products can dehydrate skin cells. It may have anti-inflammatory properties that can improve puffy eyes and cellulite, but so far research hasn’t conclusively proven it to be effective.
Calendula Extract
An extract from pot marigold that may have antioxidant properties. It reduces inflammation in sensitive skin. It may cause a reaction in people with ragweed allergies.
Camphor
An aromatic substance that produces a cooling effect when applied to skin. It is used in aromatic creams, cleansing products, makeup and shaving cream, and to sooth eczema and acne. It can cause allergic reactions and rashes. The FDA has banned products containing more than 11% camphor concentrations.
Carrot Seed Oil
An emollient plant oil that is high in antioxidants and Vitamin A. It is an essential oil and should be used with a carrier oil.
Carvone
An essential oil used in fragrance. It can cause irritation.
Castor Oil
An emollient plant oil derived from the castor bean. It can enhance the absorption of other ingredients into the skin.
Ceramides
Ceramides are natural fats in the skin’s layers. Adding ceramides to skincare products helps limit water loss and also prevents harmful substances from penetrating the skin. Combined with cholesterol and fatty acids, ceramides can improve the skin’s texture and volume.
Cetearyl Alcohol
A fatty alcohol used as an emollient. It also functions as an emulsifier and enhances a product’s texture. See Alcohols.
Cetyl Alcohol
A fatty alcohol used as an emollient. It also helps to stabilize emulsions. See Alcohols.
Cetyl Sulfate
An emulsifier.
Chamomile
An anti-inflammatory botanical used to soothe irritation, redness and discomfort. Chamomile is beneficial for soothing dry and sensitive skin. However, it can cause allergic reactions for people with ragweed allergies.
Charcoal
A popular ingredient in masks and cleansers designed for blemish-prone skin. Oil, dirt and other substances bind to the surface of charcoal, and in theory this allows it to clear out clogged pores. So far charcoal hasn’t been conclusively proven to work on acne, although its grainy texture can make it a gentle physical exfoliant. Charcoal is an inert substance that should be suitable for sensitive skin.
Cholesterol
A stabilizer, emulsifier and emollient. When combined with ceramides and fatty acids it can improve skin texture and volume.
Cinnamates
UVB absorbers used in sunscreens and color cosmetics. They are photosensitive and break down in sunlight, making them less effective over time. They are combined with other ingredients to make them stable and water resistant. Like other chemical sunscreen ingredients they can irritate sensitive skin.
Cinoxate
An active sunscreen ingredient that protects skin against UVB and UVA rays. It is used in chemical sunscreens. Like other chemical sunscreen ingredients it can irritate sensitive skin.
Citric Acid
An AHA used to exfoliate skin. It may cause stinging or irritation, especially in high concentrations. It encourages new collagen formation, but is not as effective as the AHAs glycolic acid and lactic acid. It is also used as a preservative.
Clay
A naturally occurring substance composed of tiny mineral particles that carry an electrical
Coal Tar
A by-product of coal that produces derivatives used in many industries, including as dyes in cosmetics. Coal tar can produce allergic reactions or irritations when applied to the skin but is also used to treat psoriasis and dandruff.
Coal Tar Dyes
Dyes derived from coal tar that are used as coloring in cosmetics. They often cause reactions and irritations such as rashes and hives. Coal tar derivatives are found to cause cancer in animals and many consider them unsafe for inclusion in cosmetics. The David Suzuki Foundation identifies coal tar dyes as “dirty dozen” ingredients. See Coal Tar.
Cocoa Butter
See Cacao Butter.
Coconut Oil
A non-fragrant, emollient plant oil. It is rich in fatty acids including oleic acid and linoleic acid, and can be used by itself as a moisturizer. It can cause reactions in people with coconut allergies. It can also feel greasy on the skin or clog pores, especially for people with oily, combination oily or normal skin.
Coenzyme Q10
An antioxidant compound found in every cell of the body.
Colloidal Oatmeal
Oatmeal that has been ground down into a fine powder. See Oatmeal.